Just a couple of hours from Tokyo in Gunma prefecture, Mt Tanigawa’s Nishikuro Ridge is a fantastic day out and a brilliant way to the top of a pretty big mountain if you fancy something just a bit harder than the popular and busy Tenjin Ridge (don’t worry, you’ll get to sample that on the way down…).
It’s technically easy, but still a big route – and if the snow is soft it can be extremely slow going (I had to give up on my first attempt). The first bus might not give you enough time to hit the summit and make it in time for the last cable car down, so a better bet is to drive and either stay somewhere close for an alpine start, or if you’re feeling really dirtbag-y, sleep in the Tanigawa-Joch ropeway carpark and get up early…
The route is pretty easy to follow – from the ropeway, walk uphill on the road for 2 or 3 switchbacks until you reach the mountain rescue hut. From there, the route is signed, but you’ll most likely be able to follow tracks (unless there’s been a fresh dump of snow).
Head uphill through the trees, broadly northwest, until you come to an electricity pylon, from there, it’s a pretty straight shot southwest along the obvious ridgeline. As you come out of the treelined the views get pretty spectacular and you’ll be treated to some fun ups and downs over a series of pinnacles – there are a couple of steep spots, but it’s never particularly difficult. If it’s clear, you’ll be able to see the Tenjidaira cable-car station on your left; that’s your way down later!
It gets very snowy on Tanigawa, and can be prone to avalanches due to its relatively low height. The ridge can form a formidable cornice, so be careful.
After a couple of fun hours on the ridge, the trail turns west and then north-west, and you’ll see the ridge peters out into the summit slope. The exposure is all done now, it’s just a steep push to the south summit (1963m). If the weather’s good and you have the energy, keep going north for a few hundred metres to the north summit (1977m).
Once you’re back to the south summit, head south on the obvious, and probably busy, Tenjin ridge to the cable car station. Do yourself a favour and try the alpine gratin before buying a one-way ropeway ticket back to your car; it’s cheesy and marvellous after a day out in the snow.
A great, big mountain day in easy reach of Tokyo – and much more fun than the Tenjin ridge. Just be a bit careful on Tanigawa – it has a reputation for being dangerous, mostly because it gets a lot of snow and is pretty avalanche-prone. Speaking from experience, if it’s just snowed heavily you’re not getting anywhere near the summit of anything, so good weather is critical for this one. But get a good day and you’ll be treated to incredible views, and a fantastic Scottish Grade I winter outing.
